• Monday 13th October, 2014

• San Roman da Retorta: Private Albergue O Candido, €8

I woke up early eager to get walking, got ready, ate some yoghurt, then had to lie down again with an upset stomach! I waited and waited for it to pass, during which time it started to rain outside!

I eventually left at 10:30am, still not feeling 100% but wanting to try and see how far I could get… And I thought the walking might settle my stomach. It was raining so I was all wrapped up in my rain gear with the additional cheap plastic poncho on top, and not long after starting, I was melting inside. The rain persisted for more than one hour but I mostly stayed dry on the outside.

I knew I had albergue options today around the 20km, 28km and 31km mark but all I was hoping for was the 20km albergue. It was all road walking to begin with and it made me realise how little road walking there had been along this way until now. At one point, the path turned off the road onto a moss covered track, with lots more mushrooms, and bright green and red ferns… It was a really stunning path for about 2km and I stopped often to take lots more mushroom photos!

I met a group of 5 German women who were walking together and had started today in Lugo, they walk together for a week every year. I was also passed by a Spanish couple who asked me if I was planning on eating the mushrooms I was taking photos of…. Ah, not likely considering the last few days!

10km was exhausting but there was no Albergue for another 10km so I pushed on, slowly! I’m lucky it was a very easy day with the terrain; either along a road or through beautiful lush forest. I arrived at the albergue around 4pm and was a little surprised how “basic” it was for a private albergue and very cold inside too, but after an evening with lovely French and German company and a wonderful hospitalero (Nito), and two log fires downstairs, my initial opinion has changed… Although I hope it’s not too cold upstairs in the dorm that I can’t sleep!

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