Planning for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

四国八十八ヶ所

 

What is the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage?

What do pilgrim’s wear and carry?

Flora and Fauna (or things to watch out for!)

Japanese Signs and their translations

Pilgrim accommodation

List of the 88 Temples in English and Japanese

Glossary

Getting to Shikoku and Sim card / phone rental

 

Blogging from the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

Gear List

Expenses – How much did it actually cost?

Elevation Profiles

Video Gallery

37 responses to “Planning for the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage

  1. Thank you .. arigato gozaimasu for the wonderful blog. I walked henro in 2013 spring and will walk again in Spring 2015 March to may. Your words and feelings brought back many wonderful memories.

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  2. HI, good to find your blog. I walked part of the henro trail as part of an improvised 30-day walk through Shikoku in 2008. I’m finally getting around to blogging about it pretty soon & without my journals (they’re in America, I’m in Brisbane – long story) was having a hard time matching pictures to temples. Your words & beautiful pictures have proven immensely useful – and are also tempting me to head back to do it properly, which has been eating at me off on ever since!

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  3. This sounds amazing, I walked the Camino Frances in 2014 and also visited Japan later in the year as a tourist. I’m wondering what a journey like this costs roughly and maybe a comparison to the Camino daily costs so I can gage approximately how much i may need to save 🙂

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  4. Hello 😊
    I want to do the 88 temples .. But there are some few things I need to know before I do it and I can’t find it on line..
    I hope you can help me.
    1) is there always a place to sleep in the end of the day or I can get stacked outside with ought a place to sleep..?
    2)do I need to take a food with me every day or that there are a place to eat in the way?
    3)how much money more or less I need if I want to do all the way?
    4)if I don’t know japanis can I travail on my own?
    5) is it safe for a women to do the trail on her own?
    6) are there’s marks on the way? Is it easy to walk?
    Thanks!

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    • Hi Racheli,
      These are definitely great questions! Have a look at the following links as these should answer your questions:
      1. Where to sleep: https://followingthearrows.com/2014/09/22/pilgrim-accommodation/
      2. Food – this will depend on the day, if you buy the “Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide” the maps show you where there is a convenience store or restaurant so you can prepare each day. There were a few days where I needed to carry food for that day, but no longer than one day at at time.
      3. How much money: https://followingthearrows.com/2014/12/07/expenses-how-much-did-it-actually-cost/
      4. Travelling on your own in Japan – I’ve lived and traveled on my own in Japan with no problems and I know lots of other women who have to, I consider Japan an incredibly safe place but you have to always trust your instincts when traveling.
      5. Is it safe for women – I started with a friend and he left after a few weeks so I walked most of the Shikoku Pilgrimage by myself – my one fear was sleeping in the huts by myself but to be honest I was more scared of the mamushi (venomous) snakes and mukade (dangerous centipedes) than humans.
      6. The markings were generally very good as are the maps in the guidebook – I had a GPS with me but I don’t think it’s necessary.

      I hope this helps. Have a wonderful time!

      Kat

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  5. Thank you for such a detail & informative blog. We will be following your advice closely. We plan to commence mid August until end of November to do the pilgrimage. Could you please advise how heavy you pack was & if during your travels was there any free wifi available like they have in South America in the Plazas or cafes. In your gear list there is no tent listed but we noticed tents in your photo gallery is it necessary to take a tent. Thanks again for your inspiring blog. Karry & Mark

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    • Hi Karry & Mark,
      Mid-August & Sept will be quite hot & humid (it was still very humid when I started at the beginning of October), just as long as you’re aware of this 🙂 Wifi was very sporadic along the trail, the only places I really found it were from some convenience stores so I would often sit outside them trying to check emails / weather forecasts etc. 7-11 convenience stores, Starbucks & McDonalds all have free wifi but after Tokushima they all but disappear.
      My pack was probably around 15kg but I could definitely go lighter if I was to walk it again. Depending on what type of accommodation you’re planning to stay in, you may or may not need a sleeping bag & mat. Wet weather gear is a must and if starting in August it will be very hot, but finishing late November will be cold so you’ll need a good layering system of clothes.
      I started the trail with a friend who brought a tent with him and we stayed in this as much as possible (to save on costs), but he had an injury and had to leave and my pack was too small to carry the tent so I started staying in the free/cheap accommodation. You definitely don’t need a tent as there is accommodation all the way but it depends on your budget.
      I hope this helps. Don’t hesitate to contact me with any other questions.
      Kat

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    • Hi Alexandre,
      I met a few people who were walking at the same time I was and they didn’t speak Japanese but were getting around just fine and I’ve since spoken to others who’ve also walked it without knowing Japanese and again, were fine. If you’re planning to stay in accommodation, you can always ask the hosts to call ahead and book accommodation for you for a few days ahead (use google translate if they don’t understand!) or if you’re camping or staying in huts etc then you won’t be needing to use any Japanese. It will be a challenge, but as long as you’re up for a challenge, you’ll be fine 🙂

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  6. My husband and I will be walking this summer in July and August. We know it will be steamy hot… But that’s the time we have! Any advice for us?? We plan on camping at least half of the time.. Any idea on what night temps to expect? Your blog will certainly help along the way. Thanks!!

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    • Hi Licia,
      As long as you’re prepared for steamy hot, then you’ll be fine 🙂 maybe take with you electrolyte tablets (nuun etc) that you can add to water to keep hydrated because you’ll be sweating buckets. (I hiked in Oct/Nov but I lived in Tokyo for 7 years previously so I know hot hot/humid it is during summers in Japan but as for nighttime temps, it will depend on where you camp (by the beach, on top of a mountain etc) but I can’t imagine it getting much lower than 20C).
      Have a wonderful time, enjoy the Japanese hospitality and delicious food and email anytime if you have any questions.

      Kat

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  7. Hi Kat,
    Thank you for your feedback. I am planning for walking the trail from mid-sept to beginning nov (apprx 9 sept-4 nov, 54 days) this fall. I noticed that you walked at a quite high pace with few rest days. Any reason for that? Should I plan for extra days (ex: for weather)?

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    • Hi Alexandre,
      I was trying to walk on a budget so each day I would try to walk to a hut or the free/cheap accommodation, but sometimes they were few and far between so I walked long distances. I also lived in Japan and had the chance to visit Shikoku many times so I had seen most of the cities the trail passes through.
      My best advice would be to walk at your own pace and be open to all the wonderful experiences that will come your way 🙂

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  8. Thanks very much for sharing so much useful information about the Henro Michi! I’ve been thinking about, planning and yearning / dreaming about taking the plunge and doing the pilgrimage for a few years now. I’m hoping that next year I’ll get my chance.

    I lived and worked in Matsuyama for about a year, but that was 30 years ago! Yikes! Returning there will be special.

    Thanks again. Your work is so very much appreciated.

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  9. Hi Kat
    Very inspiring and informative blog. Thanks a lot. I will read in details as I am planning to do it during my 6-mo break. I am contemplating to do it during winter (Dec-early Feb). Not many bloggers talked about winter pilgrimage. Do you have any suggetions or know about anyone who’s done it? Thanks.

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    • Hi SeeYee,
      I don’t know anyone who’s walked it during winter, I guess the cold and possibly wet weather could put many people off! Just make sure you’re prepared for the weather, Kat

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  10. We did the trek last year started on 1 September took 63 days walked the entire way the weather was very hot each morning so we started walking at 5 am to get a good start before the heat started … you will love it best thing I have done

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  11. Hello! I have been reading your post and wanted to say thanks! I haven’t fully decided but I may be doing a walk this summer. I did El Camino and I would love to do this one. Is it common for people to do a section like El Camino? I don’t know if I will have time for the whole thing this summer. Thanks

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    • Hi Brittony,
      It is common for people to do sections, the island has 4 prefectures and you could divide the walk up in this way. Otherwise, consider the Kumano Kodo in nearby Wakayama, the Nakahechi trail is 4-5 days long and there are lots of other trails in the area if you have longer.
      Have fun!

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      • Thank you very much! It has ended up I can’t go to Japan this summer. But the 88 Temple walk is now high on my list to do while I am in Asia. Cheers!

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  12. Hello, Thank you for sharing your experience of this trail and it makes me decide to do it this coming November.
    I do have a few question and hope you could help.
    1) As mentioned in your list of accommodation, you had suggested to try to call the accommodation ahead if there is a number given. If I do not speak Japanese, how do I communicate with the owner for reservation? Do they know a bit of English?
    2) I notice you carried quite a number of gears. How heavy should my backpack be to have a comfortable trek?
    Cheers 🙂

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    • Hi YeeLing,
      If you’re staying in accommodation, you could ask the owners to call ahead for you each night (using google translate perhaps, or maybe write this down for when you don’t have wifi access). It’s not likely you’ll meet too many accommodation owners who speak English. My pack was way too heavy and I would definitely carry a lighter one if I was to do it again. If you’re staying in accommodation then you really only need a set of clothes to walk in, a spare t-shirt for the evening, pajamas and rain gear. The pack weight will depend on what you’re used to carrying but it shouldn’t need to be more than 5kg if staying in paid accommodation each night. Have a wonderful time!

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    • Hi,
      This is summer in Japan and daily highs are usually in the 30s with very humid weather. The nights don’t usually get so cold unless you’re on top of a mountain. Saying this, I would always recommend a sleeping bag, but at this time of year, just a summer bag should be fine.

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  13. Hello!!
    I,ve been reading the answers and so on. I am going now in September and I would like to stay at Minshukus every night (I had such a nice experience doing so at Kumano on the past). My question is, once you have decided were to go, how do you make the reservation. I find impossible to make a booking online…

    Thank you very much!!

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    • Hi Rafael,
      If you don’t speak Japanese, you could ask someone to book the first night for you (hotel staff / tourist office etc) then each night at the minshuku, ask them to call ahead to the next one or two destinations and book them for you. This should work if it’s not a busy time.
      Have a great time!!

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  14. Hi Kat,
    Thank you for your fantastic info. Too bad I din’t find your blog before my 2015 pilgrimage. I covered 59 temples on a bike in 12 days, I will be
    going back in October and this time I’m taking an e-bike with me. On my 2015 ride I decided to focus more on enjoyment rather than performance and sometimes I took route that was more interesting, but longer.
    For example 1 mile after temple #23 Yakuo-ji the shortest way to go is highway 55, but road 147 is absolutely spectacular and almost without traffic. This is a way to go IMHO. Shikoku is great.

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  15. Hi Kat! Thanks for the great blog! We are in our mid-50s and would like to walk four or five days on the Henro. We’ve done the last 100K of the Camino Frances and five days on the Kumano Kodo, so we have some long-distance experience although we’re definitely not thru-hikers!

    If you could do only five days on the Henro, which section(s) would you choose? While we enjoy and prefer walking, we’re not opposed to taking public transportation to get from one recommended section to another.
    Thanks, Kat, for your input! Buen Camino! 🙂

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    • Hi Jean & Hunter,
      This is a really tricky question and one I would have to scroll through my blog posts for to remind me!! I love Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama so I would definitely add this to your list if you haven’t been here before. I remember the first week or so being quite tough with some tricky climbs and constant typhoons! The south coast of Shikoku was beautiful but a lot of road walking… sorry I can’t be more helpful! Have a wonderful time no matter what part you choose,
      Kat

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  16. Hello Kat,
    Your website is just wonderful! Maybe it was already said (so sorry if you will repeat yourself) but I would like to go to Shikoku in August – September. I was thinking that I would bring my own a tent and other camping gear like a gas cooker, mess kit… What is your opinion? I have heard that it rains a lot during this period, so do you think a tent is a good idea? I am a student, so I thought it would be a good idea to save money on food and cook my own meals or would you give me any other advice? Thank you for your answers, wish you the best,
    Adela

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    • Hi Adela,
      You’re right, it’s the end of the rainy season and inside the typhoon season so it’s not the best time to hike. The wind and rain means slippery mountain trails (and they’re quite slippery even when it’s not raining!) I did it in Oct/Nov and experienced a couple of typhoons in a tent and I wouldn’t recommend it. Can you do it in spring or late autumn instead? Carrying a stove and food will certainly make things a little cheaper but will also add to the weight of your pack. Buying food at convenience stores is quite cheap depending on your budget. It might be an idea to search the internet to see if you can find anyone who has hiked during August & September to see what their experience was like.
      Good luck!
      Kat

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Comments or questions? Go for it!