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11th September, 2019

• Day 4: Zumaia to Ibiri Auzoa
• Distance: 18km
• Weather: Sunny and warm
• Accommodation: Albergue Izarbide, €13 + €12 dinner

I wake at 7.30am after a great night’s sleep; my room with the two other girls was as quiet as a mouse. The rain has stopped and the sun is shining, it looks like a glorious day. Before leaving, I eat an apple, kiwi fruit and lactose-free yoghurt (bought from the supermarket yesterday) for breakfast. All I need to really get going is a big black coffee so I stop at the first cafe where I meet Nicole and Markus from Germany and Kurt from Sweden. We’re all taking the coastal alternative today, following the red and white GR stripes.

San Telmo Ermita, Zumaia

The Ruta del Flysch, an 8km coastal trail between Zumaia and Deba is simply stunning and I’m glad I didn’t continue on yesterday in the pouring rain.

Ruta Del Flysch

Ruta Del Flysch

Ruta Del Flysch

I rejoined the Camino (slightly inland) and passed fields and farms

Basque country sheep and hill views

Cows and coastline

Coastal trail

It’s a seriously hilly day!

Lovely forest paths

Beautiful September sunny weather and stunning views on the Camino del Norte

Ermita Santa Catalina above Deba

The path descending into Deba

I stop in Deba for lunch and hear from other pilgrims that the municipal albergue here is already full. Thankfully, acting on another recommendation (thanks Nadine!) I’ve reserved a bed at an albergue a further 5km on.

The albergue is at the top of another hill and I’m relieved to arrive. Today was hot, and I know I already mentioned it, but it was very up and down! I check in to the albergue and the kind owner asks me if I want dinner, it’s going to be a salad, then roast chicken and dessert. She had me at roast chicken. Yes please! The albergue is in a converted barn and the furnishings are warm and welcoming. You can tell the owners really care about pilgrims.

And then dinner, wow! The salad is exactly what I’ve been craving, and the roast chicken with potatoes and peppers is only THE BEST CHICKEN EVER! And actually, this is my first real meal so far on the Camino! I bloomin love communal dinners and this is one of the best I’ve ever had. The company is great too. I’m sat between Jenna and Cyndi, both from Canada and we talk non-stop. I’m feeling happy and very grateful.

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