Day 13, Chop Gate Clay Bank Top to Grosmont, 36km

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  • Aug 3rd, 2013
  • ascent 591m | descent 513m
  • Grosmont: Grosmont House, £70 (double room incl breakfast)

We knew this stage was going to be a long day so we decided to leave at 7am. When originally planning the c2c I thought I would be starting each day around 6am like I had on the camino, but the difference is that on the c2c you rarely pass a café all day so it’s good to have breakfast and to take the packed lunch from the accommodation, and breakfast times vary depending on where you stay, usually starting from 7:30am or 8am. The owner of the B&B was surprised at how far we had planned to walk so agreed to serve our breakfast at 6:30am.

Dave and I were joined by Howard again, I think he had been jealous of the various beers being consumed along the way (not the walking!).

For such a long walk, this stage was the easiest walk of the whole c2c so far. There were only 2 ascents and mostly we were walking along ridges, then miles along an old railway track on top of the mountains, some road walking and then through some very quaint villages. We had great views of the North Sea all day as we walked towards it along the top of the mountains, still in the North York Moors.

Our first stop was at the Lion Inn pub on Blakey ridge at 10am, a very old pub literally in the middle of nowhere – in the middle of the moors. It wasn’t too early for a hot toddy for me (I was feeling a bit under the weather) or beer for the boys – it was an iconic pub and had to be experienced! The next stop was Fat Betty, a white landmark where tradition requires you to take and leave a snack, it was finally a chance for me to get rid of some of my emergency food which I hadn’t touched but had carried for the last 250 km! It was cool and windy along the ridges but another beautiful day.

We finally made it to Grosmont about 6pm after refuelling at two more pubs along the way. The three of us stayed at Grosmont House, an old 1800s house (yes with a ghost according to the owner) and our room on the second floor overlooked the extensive grounds and old railway station – complete with steam trains. Grosmont was a very picturesque small English village.

It was Dave’s first time to visit the UK and I had had a lot of fun whilst we’d been walking together suggesting he try new things (black pudding, flapjacks, bubble and squeak etc). At one of the pubs he asked what I wanted to drink and I said a Crabbies ginger beer, he misheard me and ordered a “crappy” ginger beer, hilarious! I also loved when he ordered a pint of strongbow early on in the c2c expecting to be served a strong beer, but instead received what he called fizzy apple juice instead. And then my favourite time was at the pub in Grosmont when he ordered spotted dick for dessert for the first time. Ahh, the English language!

There was now only one day remaining before reaching the end…

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