Day 3, Bodenaya to Campiello, 28.4km

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  • Friday 3rd October, 2014
  • Campiello Albergue Privado Casa Herminia, €23 incl dinner & breakfast

The snoring in the albergue penetrated through my earplugs last night so I didn’t have the best sleep possible! It was lovely to be woken in the morning by the sound of Ave Maria though and then have delicious coffee and breakfast waiting, prepared by the amazing hospitalero, Alejandro. It really was a 5* albergue.

Neil and I left the albergue at 8:30am and headed further up the hill into the mist. It was cooler in the morning than the other days but as soon as the sun broke through the mist it warmed up and the sweat began to pour! The morning views of the surrounding hills and mountains peeking through the mist was absolutely incredible as were the many glistening spider webs and I stopped constantly to take photos.

It was a very social walk passing and being passed by everyone we had met at the albergue last night and the night before and everyone commented on how stunning the views were. The guidebook although wrong with most distances was right about the path into Tineo being a muddy track. As far as I’m aware it hasn’t rained for a few days but there were quite a few muddy patches and at one point there was even a horse in the middle of the track that we had to walk around 🙂

After 12km we arrived in Tineo and had morning tea at the first bar we came to just on the outskirts. My morning tea was 2 cans of Aquarius (sports type drink) and a slice of homemade cake. We bought some empanada (meat pastie equivalent) at the bakery in Tineo to take with us and eat for lunch at the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery.

The monastery is 500m off the track (1km round trip) and looked in pretty bad shape (fair enough as it was founded in the 8th century) but I was surprised to read that it’s still in use… We could only walk around and see the ruins not inside the main church. We sat on a picnic table opposite the church and ate our empanadas in the shade with a lovely breeze.

The last 2.8km into Campiello were along a road but 90% of today was along country tracks or forest trails and I know I’ve mentioned it already, but all day we had really stunning views! The private albergue here in Campiello (Casa Herminia) is €23 but with a nice clean dorm and showers and includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was a feast of empanadas, followed by noodle soup, salad, paella and then just when you felt like you were going to burst they brought out a platter of beef, followed by fruit for dessert. I’m going to have to roll myself to bed!

Tomorrow is the option to take the “high route” past 3 original pilgrim hospitals but the forecast is for rain so hopefully it comes later in the day as most people including myself are eager to take the high route.

Did I mention how beautiful the views were today?!



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