Day 14, San Roman da Retorta to Melide, 30km

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  • Tuesday 14th October, 2014

It was a chilly night in the room so I slept with all my clothes on and fleece inside my sleeping bag… It wouldn’t have been so bad except that the position of my bunk was next to the window and the person who’s bed was nowhere near the window insisted on it being open… Fair enough, I usually want a window open too in a dorm room, but when you can already see your breath in the air because it’s so cold with the window closed, you know it’s going to be even colder with it open!

I managed to stomach some toast for breakfast and left the Albergue into a very crisp and cool morning, I could have done with my gloves on. I had taken the alternative “Roman way” and it was a track surrounded by heather and the occasional forest of gum trees. I descended into a valley shrouded in mist and it got even colder until the sun came up and started to warm my back as I walked.

I passed through quaint tiny Galician stone hamlets and watched as women herded cows from the fields along the track in front of me. I wondered what jobs the men were doing?

There were more moss-covered tracks with mushrooms small streams and birds singing away… It was delightful to be walking with the sunshine and no rain!

The first 20km were ok so I decided to push onto Melide but the last 10km were quite a struggle and I realised a little too late that I wasn’t quite ready yet for a long day of walking. The last 10km took forever and although I love the communal and social side of albergues, I needed to be close to my own bathroom again so I booked into a hotel in my guide (without realising how far away it was from the Primitivo) and was incredibly thankful to finally arrive!

This hotel is on the camino Frances on the outskirts of Melide as you would enter the town, so tomorrow I need to walk back almost 1 kilometre the same way I came… But it’s a terrific value hotel and the staff are very friendly and the restaurant (open at 8:30pm for dinner) was very accommodating in serving me some plain food when I mentioned I wasn’t feeling well. I would recommend this place if you don’t mind walking a bit extra.

6 responses to “Day 14, San Roman da Retorta to Melide, 30km

  1. following your words and tracks and feeling the “pain” too. I’ve not yet done a Camino but you’re helping me feel what it is like, tummy stuff included…ha…thanks for the magic.
    awesome piks…regards from down under.


  2. Great pictures! Too bad that you got sick. I feel for you as illness while you are travelling is a bummer. From the forums on Ivar’s site it looks like several people have gotten ill with the same stomach bug along the Primitivo. I wonder what is causing it? Anyway, it seems like you are getting better so if the weather holds you should be in Santiago in a few days. Buena suerte y buen camino.


    • Thanks Jnoval, I’m really not sure what it’s from but it’s certainly lingering! 😦 I’m now in Salceda and have approx 27km to Santiago, it rained all day today and is expected to rain all day tomorrow, but that’s fine, it is Galicia after all and that’s what makes the moss so beautifully green 🙂


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