• Iseji

• Day 2 – Tochihara to Ise Kashiwazaki, 32km

• Accommodation: Minshuku Idobata, ¥6000 including dinner and breakfast, 0598-89-4026

After a great night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, I set off at 7.30am. After 1km of walking along a small road, the trail turned off the road and down some steep steps to a small tunnel under the road. Apart from a very faded arrow, it would be hard to know that you have to go through this tunnel and not the opposite direction through the forest… luckily Okajimaya-san told me about this tunnel last night. I was in the forest for about 1km before joining route 42 but then only briefly as small wooden signs often pointed off the highway and into the forest crossing streams on log bridges. I passed a lot more green tea growing in the beautifully manicured ‘worm’ hedges (this isn’t a technical term, I just think they look like giant worms!) I also walked down one street where the green tea was being processed and boiled and the smell was incredible. Okajima-san had told me about a cafe that was a short detour along route 42, so I followed his advice and sat with 4 retired men while enjoying a delicious cup of coffee (I think it’s quite fair to say Japan doesn’t really do coffee and everyday until now the best I’d had was from vending machines).

Breakfast at Ryokan Okajimaya, Tochihara

Traditional buildings in Tochihara on the Iseji route

142km to Shingu, on the Iseji route

The trail goes under this small road tunnel

Crossing streams in the forest on the Iseji route

Traditional buildings on the Iseji route

This sign says to cross the river

Green tea bushes on the Iseji route

A green tea factory

Traditional buildings on the Iseji route

‘Western’ style buildings like this really stand out in Japan, possibly Meiji era?

The best coffee so far, in La Mer coffee shop on route 42, Iseji

After 14km there were a couple of restaurants for lunch around Misedani station but I decided instead to go to the Michi-no-eki on route 42 (about a 300m detour). I bought some rice balls and the local chilled green tea but didn’t stop for long as I knew I had a long way to go. The only pass today was Misesaka-toge. It took an hour to go up and down; there was a short steep ascent then an initial steep descent, but it was lovely to be in the mountains which were slightly cooler than walking along a road in the hot sun. I can’t remember how many times I crossed the railway tracks, other than a lot! After Misesaka-toge, I visited Takihara Nomiya shrine and thought how much it resembled Ise Shrine, before being told it’s an associated shrine. It was quiet and peaceful in the shrine grounds but unfortunately the only thing I was contemplating was how far I still had to walk! In the next village a local builder said hi and asked me where I was going. I told him the name of the village where I was staying and he said he was friends of the owner of the accommodation then offered me a lift which I politely declined out of stubbornness and wanting to walk.

Miyagawa river, Iseji route

Misesaka toge pass, Iseji route

Misesaka toge pass, Iseji route

Takihara Nomiya Shrine, a subsidiary shrine of Ise Jingu, along the Iseji route

Fisherman in the Ouchiyamagawa river, Iseji route

The last few kilometres were hard-going and I think today would be better split into two. The Japanese signs ran out soon after Tochihara (and I haven’t seen anything in English since I started) so I was looking at the map constantly and wondering why there’d been no effort to mark this path like the Nakahechi or even Kohechi routes. The Shikoku 88 Temple pilgrimage which was also has a lot of road walking was marked with red henro stickers so you knew you were on the right path… it’s only day 2 but I think the Iseji needs a special sticker marking the way. I was delighted to finally arrive at the accommodation and the owner was very welcoming. After a terrific dinner she asked if I wanted to go to a nearby onsen and I jumped at the opportunity so we drove about 5 minutes away and had a lovely soak.

The wonderful owner of Minshuku Idobata in Ise Kashiwazaki on the Iseji route

Dinner at Minshuku Idobata in Ise Kashiwazaki on the Iseji route