21st September, 2019
- Day 14: Santillana del Mar to Comillas
- Distance: 23km
- Weather: Overcast but hot
- Accommodation: Pension La Aldea, €15
I’m one of the last to leave the albergue. I want to wait until it’s light outside so I can take more photos of this beautiful town. It’s a gorgeous morning and the tourists haven’t yet arrived.

Dawn in Santillana del Mar and before the crowds arrive

The Collegiate Church of Santillana del Mar at dawn

Dawn in Santillana del Mar and before the crowds arrive

Sam, my roomie leaving Santillana del Mar

Sunrise over Santillana del Mar

Oh go on then! A reluctant selfie on the way out of Santillana del Mar.
This stage is beautiful. I love the rolling hills, the countryside and seeing the road stretch out for miles ahead.

Cantabrian countryside

Corn

Pilgrims entering Caborredondo

A charming old palace next to Iglesia de San Martín in San Martín de Cigüenza
In Cóbreces, I want to take the coastal route but by mistake I end up on the alternative route, in the forest. Before long, I’m walking along a small winding country road and there’s a rally race with at least 50 cars. I end up in the ditch a few too many times and I’m not happy!

Beautiful old buildings in the village of Concha

Beautiful old buildings in the village of Concha

Beautiful old buildings in the village of Concha
It’s a short day but I don’t arrive into Comillas until after 2pm. I wish I’d done my homework, there’s so much to see here and time is now against me!

Iglesia San Cristóbal de Comillas
I check into a Pension with Ted, Linda, Diane, Patrick, Sam, Cyndi (we were reunited yesterday in Santillana del Mar) and Jörg. After a quick shower, I head to lunch with Ted, Linda, Diane and Patrick. We suspect this will be our last meal together as I’m keen to do some longer days. I’m so glad to have met them and to have shared the past 10 days together.
- Having the menu del dia for lunch in Comillas – seafood paella (again, and I’m still loving it!)
- Grilled sea bass I think
- I can’t remember the name of this dessert but it was delicious, kinda like a baked custard with sponge that was soaked in licor de hierba and jam… yum!
After lunch, I make a beeline to El Capricho, a summer villa designed by Gaudi and built between 1883-1885. It’s covered in sunflowers and designed so each room receives the right amount of sunlight during the day, brilliant! I stay for hours, looking at every detail and admiring every tile. It’s wonderful.

Hydrangea’s at El Capricho de Gaudi

Sunflower tiles at El Capricho de Gaudi
- A blackbird playing a piano in a window pane at El Capricho de Gaudi
- Spot the butterfly in the middle blue glass at El Capricho de Gaudi
- And this is a moth playing a guitar at El Capricho de Gaudi

Antoni Gaudi statue at El Capricho de Gaudi
- The minaret-inspired tower at El Capricho de Gaudi
- Looking out from the grotto at El Capricho de Gaudi
- The horseshoe garden at El Capricho de Gaudi
I finally tear myself away from El Capricho and venture to the beach to walk through the seawater.

Playa Comillas

Iglesia San Cristóbal de Comillas at dusk
There are more sights here than I’ve had time to see. I’ll just have to add Comillas to my enormous list of places to revisit.
Back at the pension, I sneak quietly into the room I’m sharing with Sam and Cyndi. They’re both asleep so I try to be as quiet as a mouse and get ready for bed.
The reluctant selfie of yours is one of the best pictures I’ve seen. The scenery behind is beautiful.
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😊 Thanks Kanji! 😊
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These villages are just stunning
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Yep, they sure are! 😊
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Love the early morning shot through the empty village!
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Thanks 😊
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