29th September, 2019
- Day 22: Soto de Luiña to Canero
- Distance: 27km
- Weather: Sunny and mild
- Accommodation: Albergue Playa de Cueva, €10
There are two options to get to Villademoros, 20km away. I take the Ballota route after hearing the mountain route is overgrown and not recommended. The trail intersects the road often, then goes into the forest and drops down to sea level before climbing all the way back up. It does this all day!
My first break is at a cafe in Cadavedo, after 19km. It’s been quite an exhaustive morning, up and down, and I’m starving. I order an Americano and a slice of tortilla and meet an Italian pilgrim at the counter. He asks where I started today. He’s already walked a further 10km than me and asks why I didn’t start earlier in the morning. I explain it’s because I don’t like walking in the dark by myself as sometimes I don’t feel safe. “There’s nothing to be worried about, it’s all in your head,” he replies. Grrr… “Maybe for a man,” I think to myself. What is it with everyone and their annoying opinions? Or am I being overly sensitive? About 10 minutes later while walking I catch myself still thinking about this comment, only now I’ve come up with a much better reply and it’s too late 😉
I decide to have a shorter day, I think I’m tired and getting grumpy. I’ve been walking with Sigrid from the Netherlands for the last few kilometres and we check into the albergue at Hotel Canero. There’s no-one else here yet, which is a surprise considering how busy the albergue was last night. The beach is just a few minutes’ walk away, so after doing all my chores, I go and check it out. The waves are crashing down on the pebbles and it looks like a storm is brewing. I make it back to the albergue just as the heavens open.
It’s still just Sigrid and I here and although we’ve met quite a few times before, we’ve not spoken alot. This all changes as we chat well into the night after a hearty dinner in the hotel restaurant.