30th September, 2019
- Day 23: Canero to Navia
- Distance: 31km
- Weather: Sunny and warm
- Accommodation: Albergue San Roque, €11
I wake up feeling me again after a terrific night sleep with no noise in the room whatsoever. Sigrid and I have a quick coffee and slice of cake in the restaurant before leaving. The mornings are definitely getting cooler.
After 10km we reach the quaint town of Luarca (it reminds me of an English fishing village) and it’s the first opportunity for a break. Sigrid continues but I’m persuaded (by my sweet tooth) to stop at a pastelería.

Luarca
It’s a nice enough walk through countryside and the time flies as I’m listening to a new audiobook, City of Girls by one of my favourite people, Elizabeth Gilbert.

Pilgrims from Denmark

Giving way to the locals

Pilgrims

A Camino waymark and the Church of St Saviour (Parroquia de San Salvador) in Piñera

Camino waymarks
- Old doors on the outskirts of Navia
I check into Albergue San Roque and Aurelio, the owner, makes me feel at home straight away. The passion he has for the albergue and helping pilgrims is evident, it’s spotlessly clean and has everything you need.

Albergue San Roque
I head out for dinner and bump into Lesley and Laura, a mother and daughter from New Zealand, and the authors of the Walkie-Talkie Dolls blog. I sit with them at a table in the setting sun and we chat over a delicious dinner while sinking a few glasses of Albariño too 😉 I’m reminded of my hike with dad last year on the TMB and how wonderful it was forming those beautiful memories.
- A hearty salad for dinner in Navia
- And a huge slice of cheesecake for dessert (it’s hard to stay away from milk in this country!)
Back at the ranch, we have a sing-along and it really is the perfect ending to another glorious day on the Camino.

A sing-along back at the albergue
I’m enjoying reading about your Camino del Norte. I walked from Oviedo to Santiago in September 2015. You are inspiring me to try the Norte.
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Hi Laura,
Thanks for your comment and I hope you can experience the Norte too one day.
I absolutely loved the Primitivo from Oviedo 😊👣
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