16th November, 2019
- Day 7: from one wildcamp near Delikkemer to another
- Distance: 23.6km
- Ascent / Descent: 690m / 720m
- Weather: hot, 24 degrees C
- Accommodation: wildcamp near Delikkemer
- Total cost for one (Turkish Lira ₺): resupply at market in Gelemiş (Patara village) for water, dinner and breakfast 35 = ₺35 (~£4 / €5 / US$6)
The alarm goes off at 6:45am but it’s hard to get up when it’s still dark outside. We’d both like to be making more miles but are struggling with the limited daylight hours. Sunrise is now 7:40am with sunset at 5:59pm.
Today we’re doing a loop walk to visit Patara ruins (we feel guilty for missing the UNESCO sites of Letoon and Xanthos).
We hit the trail at 7:45am and continue beside and sometimes on top of the aqueduct.
We soon reach the Delikkemer junction and veer off towards Patara.
We finally reach the bottom of the hill and find ourselves walking past scattered tombs. We pass a Turkish tour group then reach the road and are surprised there’s no ticket office for the Patara ruins which we appear to be right in the middle of. (Check out this very interesting site if you want to know more about Patara.) The site is spread out and the temperature is already at baking level (for me anyway, Sarah is in her element with this weather!) We take a quick break (me in the little shade I can find behind an ancient arch) and plunder our food-bags for a second breakfast. Crackers and peanut butter for me.
The site, an ancient Lycian harbour city dating back to the 8th Century BC, is vast and impressive and other than the Turkish tour group who have disappeared to another corner, we have it to ourselves. Among other many interesting facts (check the above link), St Nicholas (ca. 280-343) was born here.
After exploring the site thoroughly we head up the road, exiting through the ticket office! So you do have to pay, but the trail cunningly bypasses the ticket office (coming the direction we did). With the help of a small hitchhike we arrive in Gelemiş village (it’s off the trail anyway!) We pick up fresh baguettes with cheese for dinner and snacks for tomorrow. We also refill, this time we need enough until we arrive in Kalkan tomorrow, 20km away. I drink 1L plus a fresh pomegranate juice and carry 3.5L.
Leaving Gelemiş, even though there are three hills to climb in the hot afternoon sun to reach the junction in Delikkemer again, it’s a breeze as the whole way is along dirt roads.
We make good time and at 4:30pm reach a campsite that we spotted this morning. As has become customary on this trip, we do rock-paper-scissors to see who gets the spot with the view (there’s only room for one tent). I lose! That’s three times in a row now, I wish I’d never suggested it 😉
It’s nice to arrive with plenty of time to set up camp and eat dinner before dark.
Around 9pm, I wake to voices getting closer and closer. It sounds like an amorous couple and they seem annoyed to have spotted my tent. I know I’ve been spotted because they keep shining their light on me. I think I might have inadvertently ruined their plans for a romantic rendezvous. They chat for a few minutes, then walk off. I’m impressed that anyone could walk on that trail in the dark, well done! And sorry if I spoilt your plans.
We’re using Komoot* for navigation and to record our own tracks. Prior to departing the UK we uploaded the GPX tracks to Komoot so we can now use them for navigation (with voice commands). We’re also using Komoot to record our own daily tracks which gives us the above maps, elevation profiles, distance, speed etc. You can find our collection of tracks on the Komoot App by searching ToughGirl for Sarah and followingthearrows for me. Or click the link in the caption on the above map to go straight to the track.
*Komoot premium was gifted and we also received sponsorship for this hike.
If you have any questions, leave me a comment and I’ll add a FAQ post at the end of the trip.