Day 21, Temple 38, 52km

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  • Saturday 26 October, 2013
  • Weather: Perfect and sunny, 20⁰C 
  • Temple: 38, (Kongofukuji), 52km
  • Accommodation: Pension Anshuku 0880-84-0567, Shimonokae, ¥4,000

The reason we stayed 2 nights in this accommodation was because Temple 38 is situated on a cape and we would have to go there, then backtrack for 30km to get back onto the path for the next temple. We didn’t want to carry our heavy backpacks there and back so we used this accommodation as a base and just took a small daypack for the walk to the temple.

Looking at the guidebook we had figured it out to be a 46km day (there and back) but the owner told us the book was wrong and from their place it was a 56km return trip… So we left at 4:30am! After the last 3 days of constant rain it was a delight to look out the window and see a sky full of stars and no rain! The typhoon had passed Shikoku during the night and the day after a typhoon is always a beautiful sunny day.

We walked in the dark for a couple of hours along the coast, oblivious to the beautiful coves and beaches to our left. It was still very windy but was an easy walk carrying just a small bag with food and extra socks (instead of a 13kg backpack!). Once the sun had risen, I stopped often to take photos of the stunning coastline and look for whales – this area is a famous whale watching spot but I think it’s the wrong season now…

Talking about seasons, the reason we chose autumn to do this walk was because of the lovely autumn weather – cool mornings and evenings with mild days – perfect for walking – and no typhoons because they finish in September! Could someone please tell autumn to appear!! The first 2 weeks were 100% humidity and temperatures in the high 20s to low 30s and this was our third typhoon to walk through. I look like I have third degree burns on my hands and nose and my shoes and backpack are now just constantly wet! … Not a complaint, just an observation! 😉

The temple had some terrific statues and there was a beautiful view of the cape in the car park opposite. We had made sandwiches for lunch and ate them at the temple before heading back the same way we’d come.

On the way back I was passed 4 times by a little girl and her father on bicycles before she got up the courage to stop next to me and ask me where I was from. I told her I was from Australia and for the next 45 minutes I was imitating Australian animals!

For the rest of the walk I was thinking about how I should have downloaded some audiobooks because I’m bored with my own thoughts and I’ve now listened to every album on my Apple nano at least a dozen times already. If anyone has any suggestions of what I can do or think about while walking 10 hours or so each day, they’d be greatly appreciated!

The day was a total of 52km, the furthest I’ve ever walked in one day! Back at the hotel we watched a few more episodes of Breaking Bad then hit the sack for an early night after a very long day.

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