26th November, 2019
- Day 17: zero day (transfer to Adrasan)
- Weather: stormy
- Accommodation: Bungalow at Duran Pansiyon
- Total cost for one (Turkish Lira ₺): resupply in Adrasan 14, accommodation 75 = ₺89 (~£11 / €13 / US$15)
I wake in the middle of the night to sounds of thunder, flashes of lightning and water dripping on me. Unzipping the tent (inside the bungalow), I feel around the walls, stand in a few puddles and find that behind the curtains, the windows are all open. The rain is lashing at the bungalow and I’m glad we’re inside, even though I am kinda wet. The thunder is so loud and the rain so heavy, I worry about the hillside we’re on… Thank God we’re not camped at an exposed lighthouse on the end of a peninsula!
Amazingly, I manage to get back to sleep but it’s still raining when I finally wake at a more reasonable time. We head to the main house for breakfast and chat to the owners about the day ahead. They tell us the storm isn’t over and advise not to continue walking today… in fact, the forecast for the next few days is for high winds and heavy rain. We eat Gözleme (savoury pancakes) for the first time and try to brainstorm a new plan.
Just at this moment a Russian couple walk in and we start chatting. They came via the lighthouse yesterday and the man tells us his girlfriend is still in pain after falling over a few times on the slippery, exposed, rugged trail. They don’t recommend it. As we see it, we have two choices: either sit here for a whole day and night and try to continue to the lighthouse tomorrow or skip the lighthouse section and get a transfer to Adrasan on the other side of the peninsula to continue walking tomorrow.
I would rather pull my hair out than sit and wait for the rain to stop, so we agree to skip this section for now (and hopefully come back to it) and arrange with the owners for a transfer to Adrasan. They drop us off at a bungalow recommended by the Russian couple.
Adrasan looks like it took the brunt of last night’s storm and it’s quite the obstacle course to walk down the flooded streets to reach a market. We pass at least a dozen but the only one still open (due to low-season) is at the far end of the village. We stock up on supplies for dinner, breakfast and trail snacks in the hope we can continue walking tomorrow.
Back at the bungalow, it’s early afternoon but there’s nothing else to do while the rain continues lashing down, so we retire to bed and watch Netflix. At least I try to. The mosquitoes are even worse than last night but this time I can’t find where they’re getting in. As soon as I kill one, ten more attack. Why didn’t I bring mosquito repellent or a head net?!
For the second night in a row, for the sake of my sanity and a good night’s sleep, I’m forced to set up my tent inside.
(Just in case you’re wondering, the last hot shower I had was on day 10 in Kaş – all accommodation since has relied on solar power; no sun = no hot water!)
To see Sarah’s vlogs of our Lycian Way hike, click here. You can also follow her on Instagram, Twitter, LinkedIn, YouTube, and keep up to date with the podcasts here.
If you have any questions, leave me a comment and I’ll add a FAQ post at the end of the trip.